The end of one thing is the beginning of another, so goes the saying. So while it was some shock then when Casamia, Peter Sanchez-Iglesias’ much celebrated Michelin-starred restaurant, closed last August. We now can see the exciting new opportunity its demise produced with Peter’s replacement restaurant, Casa in Bristol. But is Casa more than just a new lick of paint (and a few letters lost)? We went down to find out.
The first thing you’ll notice from the harbourside, stepping up to Casa, is the bright interiors gleaming out onto the street. Gone are the darkly painted, almost oppressive, walls of Casamia. While the atmosphere is equally uplifting. Staff are relaxed and friendly, but deeply knowledgeable about the food they serve. Every stupid question we had was answered with earnestness, while detailed descriptions of everything on Casa’s tapas-style menu was happily given.
This same feeling could be extended to the chefs, meticulously focused in the open kitchen close to our table, as well as to the other diners too. Casa feels designed to let you relax, a place to be happy, you are meant to enjoy yourself. But there is also a quiet confidence about Casa – letting the quality of food shine the brightest above all else.
There are two ways to order at Casa. Firstly, there’s the Chef’s Choice (£80pp), which as you might expect sees the kitchen decide what comes to your table. But we opted to decide ourselves (With much help from our waiter) from the tapas-style Italian menu – with daily specials squiggled all over the menu, a nice touch that showcases Casa’s seasonal servings.
Served in ‘waves’, the antipasti arrived at our table first: alongside focaccia, mushroom arancini and taleggio, the star here was fried semolina with parmesan. A crisp-like texture balled around a light and airy, parm mousse (£4 each). While the Sicilian speciality caponata (£8) – a mix of chopped aubergine, capers, tomatoes, raisins and other ingredients we couldn’t quite decipher – was a refreshing, and almost fruity, distraction from the rather rich flavours to come. Perfect for smothering over focaccia too.
Next came the pasta, which for us was almost certainly the star of the show at Casa. Casamia’s signature potato ravioli returns here but, much like Casa itself, has been reinvented and become something altogether new. This dish is elevated with the addition of a rich and hearty mushroom ragu (£19). So meaty you might forget it’s vegetarian.
But undoubtedly the best dish of the evening was the double agnolotti (£19). It is composed of two pasta parcels – one stuffed with ricotta and gorgonzola, the other a squash puree – coupled together, it is then doused in brown butter and to be enjoyed in one bite. Nothing we say can prepare you for the taste explosion. You know it’s going to be good; yet it’s still somehow even, better than that.
If you’re hoping for something a little less rich and heavy after that, you’re out of luck we’re afraid. Next, braised beef cheek (£26.5) which was so soft it could be (And was) literally eaten with a spoon. While the leek gratinata (£9) – forgive us for saying this – is like the best cheesy leeks you’ve ever had. We also had delicately wilted spinach with pest0 (£8.5).
Finally, we ended the evening by sharing a portion of torta tenerina (11), a moist yet densely chocolatey cake with a side of homemade vanilla ice cream. We then ordered some negroni cocktails. Although nothing too flashy, they were perfectly balanced and tasting – and perhaps that’s the best way to describe Casa too.
It’s easy to see how even after a short time, it found itself on SquareMeal’s UK Top 100 in the UK. In our own visit we barely scratched the surface of Casa’s menu. While probably not one for regular trips, Casa still demands repeat visits (especially on special occasions) and is easily one of Bristol’s best restaurants. To learn more about Casa head here.