When it’s a cold, wet, and wintry Tuesday evening, the last thing I want to do is leave the warmth of my house. Stepping off the bus in Stokes Croft, rain coming down, a cold threatening to break, I wasn’t convinced I wasn’t better off turning back and tucking myself into bed. I’m so glad I didn’t and visited Caper & Cure instead.
I must’ve walked past the independent restaurant a million times, but I’ve never really paid it much notice before. On the corner of Montpelier, nestled in between the Here gallery-cum-bookshop and the ethically-focused Cafe Kino, Caper & Cure is more understated compared to its vibrant neighbours, but no less intriguing.
Caper & Cure adds a splash of refinement to the laissez-faire attitude of Stokes Croft. Beyond the obvious cooking references, the name itself is also a nod to “a ridiculous escapade” and “to make well and treat successfully”, both of which it balances together tonight. With a laidback and free, yet cosy and charming atmosphere.
For all intents and purposes, Caper & Cure has bistro energy—the Times once called it a “bijou nouvelle bistro,” if you want to get pretentious about it—which would be unfair, because this spot is anything but. It’s the sort of venue where you want to hang out for hours, and can do, in its own wine bar, Carmen Street Wine, just behind.
But back to Caper & Cure: Expect hearty, home-style cooking (inspired by French, British and Mediterranean cuisine) packed full of simple, but powerful flavours. For starters, we opted for warm crab and crayfish butter, soft herbs, bread (14) and whipped ricotta, candied cashews, orange, radicchio, balsamic (9).
There’s a breadth to the menu that remains unfussy. For mains, we chose roast duck breast, caviar lentils, salsa verde, winter greens (28) and 8oz onglet, peppercorn sauce, frites, grilled hispi (27). But tonight, with Cornish sole (24) and crown prince and ricotta agnolotti (21) also available, it was tough to pick.
At its heart, Caper & Cure feels ready-made for date night. Intimate, warmly-lit, full of character and friendly charm. It’s somewhere you feel welcome (no thoughts of ‘do I belong here?’) that can just as easily impress. We opted to share a pear and ginger sponge, poached pear, vanilla ice cream (9), before heading home. A trip worth bracing the rain for.
If you’d like to book a table at Cape & Cure, head here.