Looking back at my recent trip to Castle Combe, it’s difficult to believe any of it happened. I look at my Instagram and every pic looks photoshopped or AI-generated. The sort of images that’d come up on Google if you search: “The world’s prettiest village.” Because, at the end of the day, that’s what it is: The quintessential, traditional English hamlet.
Known worldwide for its cosy country lanes, honey-coloured homes and a babbling brook running through it, there’s a reason it’s been picked as a filming location for everything from Downton Abbey and Slow Horses to Stardust and War Horse. My arrival from Bristol (taking only 40 minutes in the car) felt like stepping onto a film set or walking into a postcard.
Located in the heart of the Cotswolds, no new houses have been built in Castle Combe since the 17th century. There are over 100 of the listed buildings, in fact, and it shows. If you’re looking for something that feels a million miles from the hustle-and-bustle of Bristol, this is the ideal day trip/overnight getaway – with only the gentle far-off hum of Castle Combe Circuit to remind you of modern life.
The most spectacular of Castle Combe’s buildings has to be the Grade II-listed The Manor House hotel. This idyllic, ivy-covered retreat – with its very own beautiful Italian gardens and 18-hole golf course – is utterly breathtaking (and that’s saying something here) as you turn up its long, winding drive. And had me feeling like I was starring in the second season of The Gentlemen or Rivals.
Before heading in, however, I went on a stroll around Castle Combe and its neighbouring villages (one of many surrounding country walks). Just a tip: Remember to bring your wellies/walking boots (which I didn’t). This is the countryside and not a film set after all. I also fuelled up on crisps, a sausage roll and a flat white from the cute and charming Old Stables cafe in the village.
But I wasn’t here for coffee and pastries. My main reason for visiting sat on the other end of the culinary scale. The Michelin-starred Bybrook restaurant, named after the river that flows through the village, is conveniently located inside The Manor House. Serving a seven-course tasting menu (£145), along with wine pairings (£99), from executive chef Robert Potter, makes Castle Combe worth visiting alone.
So after I’d changed out of my muddy clothes, washed (taking advantage of The Manor House’s Luxe room’s walk-in shower), and daydreamed staring out across the estate grounds for a few seconds, I headed down for dinner. Half-expecting a stuffy restaurant, as old in style as the 17th-century country house itself, I was surprised to discover a classic yet modern menu full of subtly forward-thinking flavours.
From delicate wild mallard tortellini served with autumn truffle and consommé to a zingy native lobster with kohlrabi and finger lime, these aren’t everyday dishes. What they are is a refined celebration of simple, high-quality ingredients. Be it wild sika deer, Cornish brill and caviar, or even a simple Roscoff onion, it’s all about uplifting rather than reinventing.
But the best part of staying/eating in The Manor House and Bybrook? It has to be the relaxed and charming staff that seamlessly bridges the grandeur of the old hotel with its modern aims. No one even rolled their eyes when I ordered a beer and settled into a food coma next to a roaring fire by the bar. I don’t even remember going to bed, but woke up in one of the softest beds I’ve ever slept in…
With an unusual lack of sound or light pollution compared to Bristol, I slept in late. Dragging myself downstairs with a happy hangover headache to tuck into a breakfast spread of meats, cheese, pastries, and coffee, and I ordered eggs on toast on top. But The Manor House isn’t the only worthwhile eatery in Castle Combe.
If you’re after something a little more traditional, the country house’s sister pub, The Castle Inn offers a very different vibe. The village was busier on Saturday when I headed over for lunchtime. Every tourist seemed as star-stuck by Castle Combe as I’d been when I first arrived – and some, I saw, were almost run over while striking the perfect Instagram pose.
It just so happened that the irregular Castle Combe Market was happening that day too, selling everything from candles to woolly jumpers and unicorn statues… But I didn’t waste much time there, as I only had a couple of hours until I had to head back to Bristol. And I was hungry, again.
If fine dining isn’t your cup of tea, but you still want high-quality British cooking, then The Castle Inn is your answer. Using local and homegrown ingredients, dishes ranged from Orkney scallops to stout braised beef, squash saag aloo, and Cornish hake. It also does a mean burger if that’s more what you’re after, while for dessert I enjoy a sticky date and stout cake with Guinness ice cream.
Named the Best Pub at the Trencherman’s Awards in 2023, you can even stay over here if you life. With 12 contemporary ensuite rooms, it’s not quite the luxury of The Manor House but is no less impressive. It’s even happy to host your huge family gatherings over the Christmas period. A two-night package at The Castle Inn is £750 per person based on a minimum of 20 guests. You can check out it’s Christmas brochure by heading here.
Whether you’re after a high-end getaway, filled with fine dining and luxury hotel rooms, or just a quick day trip crammed with walking coffees and a pub lunch afterwards, there’s no excuse for anyone to not visit Castle Combe this Christmas. Even now, as I write this, I still have trouble remembering that it wasn’t all a dream!